How to apply false lashes like a pro

Heather Card Wed 29 Jan 2020
If you want longer, thicker, fuller looking lashes and want to apply false lashes whilst still looking natural here are some great tips I like to use with my clients to ensure a great comfortable fit, secure seal and natural look, obviously you may want something a little more dramatic these tips will still help you achieve this too.

When I talk about false lashes I mean strip lashes the type you can buy literally anywhere ranging from £1-£25+. These types of lashes are made from a short weft of individual hairs made from either synthetic or natural fiber to produce a lash line. The weft strip either come in clear, white and black stripes. White strips are supposed to be invisible but if applied incorrectly can really show up if not camouflaged into the lash line. I normally opt for a black band as I find these the best to camouflage into the natural lash line and to blend with mascara and eyeliner, however the white strip or clear strip if applied correctly can look even more natural and great for an every day makeup look.

or you can opt for individual lashes I mean the clustered lashes not the semi permanent types that take hours to apply and last a few weeks, I mean the sort that are tiny spots of glue with 3-5 individual hairs attached that can be used to flare the outer edge of the natural lash, add fullness and thickness to a sparse lash line.

Tip 1 - Removing  from packet

Never pull you strip lash off of the plastic backing always use a pair of tweezers to gently ease off an edge and peel away from the backing, this will prevent the lash from stretching, distorting and potentially tearing.

Tip 2 - Preparing the eyelashes 

The lashes need to be malleable and can be quite stiff from being in packaging so will require a stretch before being applied for a comfy fit. Hold the lash end with index finger and thumb on both hands ripple the lash and shake it this will help the fibers seperate  creating a less rigid appearance on the eye.

Tip 3 - Measuring the eyelashes 

So many people forget this vital step making sure your lashes actually fit your natural lash line and eye shape exactly will ensure a more natural result and will be the most comfortable to wear too. Have you ever worn lashes and they have irritated the inside corner of your eye? Chances are they were too long for your eye shape or inappropriately applied to the lash line.

Normally you want your lashes to start after a few of your own lashes on the inner corner of the eye and you want the end of the false lash to end at your natural lash line to prevent the eye from looking droopy or heavy. When cutting your false lash always make sure you cut them from the outside edge and never from the inner corner as eyelashes are shaped for the eye so the lashes on the inside are shorter than the outside so if you cut the inside lashes your lashes will end up looking odd and the inner lashes will likely be too long and irritate your eye. Never cut the lashes them selves as the individual fiber is tapered into a point like a natural lash and if you were to cut them off they would end up looking blunt and fake on the eye. 

Tip 4 - Glueing your lashes

There are so many glues on the market I am going to talk about some of my favorites. I used to use Duo it was my go to for a very long time and they even do a latex free version too and a black version. People may disagree on which colour glue is best I personally use white as it dries clear, sometimes if it's a little thick it can sometimes stay white but can be easily fixed with mascara and eyeliner. A black glue dries black and often shiny so it has to be applied perfectly with no lumps otherwise, this will be visible on the lash line and can be hard to blend.

My favorite glue is Esquido Companion Glue it gives such a strong bond once dry, it is hypoallergenic andd contains no latex. It is easy to use with a thin applicator, water proof and long lasting once it has fully bonded.  

Before applying your lashes I like to apply a little bit of mascara to the natural lash as I find it helps them blend a lot better, I then apply more mascara once the lashes have bonded to help the natural lash blend with the false lash.

I do not curl my lashes or my clients lashes before applying the strip lash as this makes it so much more tricky to apply and it is not necessary.

Tip 5 - Applying your lashes

Applying lashes to your own face and struggling? try instead of fully closing your eye to try looking down into a mirror it will stretch the eyelid and you will still be able to see as you can use both eyes.

Apply your chosen glue to the strip underside and edge and let the glue go tacky this should take about 30-45 seconds bring your prepared measured and cut lash up to your lash line and start from the inner corner ensure some of your natural lashes are left so you are not glueing the strip lash right into the corner of the eye as this will be very uncomfortable and make sure you glue the strip lash to the lashes and not the eyelid skin as this will be uncomfortable to wear for a significant length of time.

I like to place my lash into the center of the lash line and then press the lash into place from inner and outer corner I then use my tweezers to press the lash on and ensure a tight seal. Once I feel it has dried I do a tug test.

Make sure when applying your lash that you flip the lash so you are applying the strip lash on top of the lash line if you apply it from the side they may well stick but it won't look as good as applying them on top of the eye you get a better curve this way and is more suited for the eye shape.

My favorite trick for blending in eyelashes is to get my clients to look to the outer corner of the eye and using gel liner or pencil I run it along the upper water line in the inner corner of the eye up until the join of the strip lash this helps the lashes really blend into that lash line. I even use this technique if my clients are not wearing strip lashes but I will run the eyeliner across the entire length of the upper water line as this makes the natural lashes appear fuller and really does make a huge difference to an eye makeup.

Tip 6 - Removing your lashes

An oil based makeup remover can be used to remove most lash glues but most lash glues are gentle enough on the natural lash that the stripes can be gently peeled off without any damage being caused to the natural lash.

Lashes can be worn multiple times as long as they are cleaned between each wear to prevent the spread of any bugs and bacteria. cleaning your lashes will also stop the lashes from becoming clogged with mascara and glue and looking spiky and un-natural when applied.

Tip 7 - Cleaning you lashes

Put your work strip lash into a paper towel and spray with IPA or a brush cleaner to gently remove any glue or mascara residue with a cotton bud. Once clean give your lashes a comb through with a mascara wand and leave them to dry. They are now ready to wear again.

I hope you have found these tips useful and I would love to hear how you got on with them and to see some of your results.

Have fun applying those lashes...

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