Now I am not shaming the Instagram brow all I am saying is that it is not my style and I don't offer it to my Brides.
I prefer the more natural refined, defined brow for my beautiful brides and clients.
Brows always need attention as part of a makeup application, how much attention is defined by the brow itself as some are naturally desirable and may only require a tidy up and a bit of powder to define the brow. Some brows may be sparse, narrow, thin or even stop short these types of brow may require more work.
There are so many brow products on the market it's hard to know which are the best, I personally use Urban Decay Brow Blade in Taupe which is a pencil and an ink which are both waterproof. I also like to use Benefit Brow Zings which is a gel and powder. I recommend using a brow powder as it is easy to use and you are less likely to make a mistake.
Now you have chosen your brow product, its time to choose your brow shape and its effect, you may just simply require your brow to be brushed through with some powder to even out any sparse areas.
When working on a brow you want to use upwards strokes when applying your brow powder, gel, pencil as you don't want to flatten the brow you want to accentuate the arch shape and it's fullness , I always like to use a thin angled brush to apply my powders or gels, just make sure you remove any excess product. Start from the ends of the brow, working towards the middle, so the darkest point is at the end of the brow and fade it towards the centre of the face near the bridge of the nose.
Hair colour plays a major part in choosing your suitable brow shade, if you have dark hair and a light brow you may wish to darken your brow to match your hair. I always like to choose a shade that I think is too light for my clients natural hair colour when they are brunette as this always appears darker in the brow and matches them perfectly.
To create a more defined brow you need to brush all the brow hairs straight up and trace the root line in a powder, gel or pencil, brush all the hairs down and trace in the root line across the top of the brow, following your natural brow shape, brush the hairs back into their natural position and fill in the centre using a natural colour focusing on the outer point and fading towards the centre of the face, if your frame lines are 1-2 shades darker than your brow fill colour this will accentuate the definition, just make sure you don't over do the brow. Use a little bit of concealer under the arch of the brow to help define the brow further or apply a little of MAC Soft & Gentle Highlighter to the brow bone to define the brow without over doing it. You should not to have to conceal around the entire brow to "carve" out its shape the brow shaping you did earlier will do this for you, you only need a little bit of highlighter under the arch and this will help your brows frame your face and not be the focal point of the face. I absolutely adore a defined brow with a smokey eye, a well done brow can really make the makeup.